Step 34 Attach the cell plug. Make sure it is pushed on completely as shown at left. Step 35 Your salt generator cell is ready for operation. Step 36 Next you want to add salt to your pool for the Salt Chlorine Generator to act on. If you are not installing a Compupool unit, check your manufacturer's instructions for their recommended level of concentration. Use a salt that is at least The preferred salt is an evaporated, granulated, food quality, NON-iodized salt.
Avoid using salt with anti-caking agents like sodium ferrocyanide, also known as yellow YPS prussiate of soda. These cause some discoloration of fittings and pool surface finishes. DO NOT use calcium chloride. Step 37 Using a saltwater test strip, measure the current salt level of your pool. For the Compupool generators, the ideal is ppm. If the level is low, determine the number of gallons in your pool and add salt according to the Salt Table. For example, if your pool has 15, gals of water and your current salt level is , you need to add lbs of salt.
Click here to view salt test kits. The generator should not be turned on until the salt is completely dissolved. For best results empty the required salt into the shallow end of the pool and let it dissolve and circulate through the main drain. The salt may take about 24 hours to dissolve completely. Finer grades of salt will dissolve faster. Step 40 After the salt has dissolved, turn on the salt chlorinator.
Check to see that the salt level is around ppm. Your pool should be maintained at around this level. A low salt level below ppm reduces the efficiency of the salt generator which results in low chlorine production.
A high salt level above ppm can rapidly reduce the longevity of the cell. See Operator's Guide , for further instructions. Add a Comment. If you have the old plug version, close the female terminals slightly for better contacts. If no success, call Compupool at to help you troubleshoot the system.
The SCG is generally run off the same timer that controls your pump assuming they are the same voltage. And these SCGs are designed to operate at low speeds. Recently, we bought a compu pool salt system from the person who has in-ground pool.
We installed the salt system, we put the right amount of salt and after a certain hours of dissolving that salt, we started the control unit. I just wanted to ask if I did any mistakes with the installation or if the system doesn't work from before and we don't have timer on the salt system. Do we have to buy one? Also, our pump is working with 2 speeds. Is the system going to work if the pumps are working in low speed? Thank you. Still working on your question on CPX Chlorine output.
My one other question is about specs for the CPX Mainly, what is the expected daily Chlorine output for this model? I can't find that info on any site I'm looking at. And , BTW.
Thanks for your help!! My only concern is whether or not the circuit can handle the current from both products. I will check with the mfr tomorrow and amend this response. Maybe you can help with how to wire the control unit to an Intermatic PME digital timer in mode 3. The filter pump is wired to circuit 1 and the boost pump to circuit 3. Circuit 2 is not in use. Intermatic suggests I wire it to circuit 2 and just set the run time to the same as circuit 1.
I would think I could just wire it to circuit 1 and have the cpx run at precisely the same time as the filter pump? The AG model has a receptacle at the bottom for a pump plug instead of wiring the pump to the timer.
In a saltwater pool, high calcium levels will damage the saltwater chlorinator and cause a more frequent salt cell replacement. Some common symptoms of high calcium content in saltwater pools are cloudiness in the water, rough chalky surfaces, and clogged-up filters with calcium residue.
In saltwater pools, you will also notice more calcium content in the salt cell. You can also test the calcium hardness with most standard testing kits. Several factors cause calcium hardness, but usually, the culprit is hard water. This means the water source used to fill the pool has high mineral content.
When water evaporates in your pool, the calcium saturation rises. Raising your calcium levels is much easier, but unfortunately, there is really only one option to lower it. To lower your calcium hardness, you will need to partially drain your pool and refill it with less calcium-rich water. This can be a frustrating problem if the water in your region is hard. But there are also chemical water softeners that can help with this. Your water circulation is important because it allows the chemicals you add to do their jobs and for the filter to function properly.
If your pool is not getting enough circulation, the salt chlorine generator will not do its job well and the chemicals and salt levels will struggle. Check the skimmer and pool filter and see if there is any type of debris blocking the flow. Stagnant water will grow more algae and become swampy over time, so it is important to check for the warning signs that your water is not moving enough.
The main cause of poor water circulation is blockages in the skimmer, filter, or piping. The pump will need to have a clear system to produce enough suction to move the water continuously.
This problem is generally pretty easy to fix. You should clean out the skimmer and backwash the filter if necessary. Once you have cleaned everything out, the circulation should return to normal.
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Compare quotes for free from fully vetted pool professionals. I replaced it as soon as I got it and when turned on I got a salt reading of and a high salt fault light. Called customer service and reported my findings and was told to raise my numbers.
My temp. The problem I found with the new board is that it would not keep the time. I re-installed my old board and re-calibrated it to the settings I had using the replacement board. The original pcb had settings in the mid twentys. It has been working just fine all month long with the old pcb and new calibration table. I have rigged up a digital thermometer to give me water temperature so the on board display is not a problem for me.
Also noticed that when it switches from polarity 1 to polarity 2 I get an over current indicitation for about 10 seconds , customer support tells me not to be concerened. May 28, Re: New Compupool Install - Bad water temp and salt ppm read I too have had all the same issues reported in this thread. I even went through the calibration process and they sent me out a new control board and display.
The numbers are still never consistent, and almost never correct. It's frustrating to say the least. That being said, I still test my water every week or so and set the output of the unit based on my test results. I don't really have it down to a science yet - more like winging it.
As for the salt content, I'm going to wait for my own testing to show anything lower than ppm before I add any salt. Aug 27, 3. The temp. Tech support has assured me not to worry about these false readings as long as it was producing chlorine. The terminals are tight and corrosion free.
My call to customer support got no answer and no way to leave a message. I will try again tomorrow and if I don't get through I will try a recalibration. Does anyone have any suggestions? May 30, Allentown, PA. Re: New Compupool Install - Bad water temp and salt ppm read I have the same unit and I have had all the same problems here.
Tried calibration 2 times. I have been trying to get a replacement control unit since june, but it still has not been mailed out and I left a message and it was not returned. My unit gives false salt and temp readings, but does produce chlorine. I did a lot of research about compupool and decided on the unit because of price and basically what I read here. So for anyone interested in Compupool don't count on the temp gauge or salt level gauge to work.
I have a feeling most people that have this unit see the fault lights light up, but don't pay attention to them if the thing is producing chlorine. I really expect more from a company that has been in business since All that being said, first season with the SWG and the pool has been crystal clear and I only used 2 gallons of bleach all summer to raise FC with large swimming load.
I'm really happy with the pool, but for the money you pay, there is an expectation that the unit will function as the description says. I have been told that the unit might be faulty.
I was sent a warranty claim form and was told that upon receipt of that plus photos of the unit I would be sent a Fedx shipping voucher with which to return the unit after a business day processing time. I will keep the forum informed as to the progress.
Jan 16, 57 Taxachusetts. I purchased a new CPSC48 and it showed up dead. After over a month I got a replacement control unit sent to me. First, not everyone wants to cut into their pool plumbing system. Maybe they are not comfortable with cutting and gluing PVC, or perhaps their system is located below water level and the isolation valves leak.
The most common reason that you might want to have a professional install your salt system is simply because if you do it wrong then you can damage your pool and other pool equipment. That alone is enough to scare most people away from installing their own salt system. Unfortunately hiring a pool company to install your chlorinator for you may not have the professional results that you are hoping for.
All too often pool owners pay for the installation of a salt system only to encounter serious problems months or years down the road - problems directly as a result of an inadequate installation of the salt system. If you are like me and believe that if you want something done the right way you need to do it yourself, installing a salt system properly is certainly something you can do.
Cell location - The chlorine generation cell must be installed as the last component on the equipment pad directly before the water returns to the pool.
Since the cell generates a significant concentration of chlorine you do not want to send this chlorine through your pool equipment, especially your heater. By installing the cell last in line the concentrated chlorine water is sent directly to the pool where it diffuses within the large body of water.
Flow switch location - If your salt system requires the installation of flow switch such as the Hayward Aqua Rite then you should install the flow switch with 10x the pipe diameter in a straight, unobstructed run, in front of the switch. You also want to have 4x the pipe diameter in a straight, unobstructed run, following the flow switch. This installation will ensure accurate and error free operation of the flow switch. The cell itself can count towards your length of the straight and unobstructed run of pipe.
Since the flow switch only detects whether water is moving through the pipe or not you do not need to worry about installing the flow switch last on the equipment pad. No chlorine is generated from the flow switch so there is no concern for risk of damage to your pool equipment by having the flow switch in front of your heater in the plumbing system. Sacrificial anode - A salt chlorine system increases the galvanic activity in your pool.
To help mitigate this risk you need to have a sacrificial anode installed which will help to absorb the brunt of the damage caused from galvanic corrosion in your pool. A zinc disk in the skimmer and pump baskets are not suitable as a stand alone protection against galvanic corrosion in a salt water pool.
You should have an inline anode installed in the pump room, and that anode should be tied into the bonding grid of your pool.
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