Wpc schematics manual

Forgot your password? Or sign in with one of these services. By Berty , December 30, in Pinball. Many thabnks must go to Woka for proving me with a large collection of Pinball and Arcade manuals some time ago. I have be meaning to make them freely available for download for some time, but due to time constraints i have not been able to do so -but rest assured i will get around to it. If you are after a pinball manual then please reply in this thread and i will se if i have got it.

Alternatively, i can make some copies of the disc that i have if ppl are interested in getting the whole lot free of course. I will post a list of manuals when i find a good tool to list the contents of folders as text files any suggestions?

I've bookmarked the site for future reference. Unfortunatly none of these site have Gottlieb manuals. Must be some copywrite thing so when I saw it on Berty's list I got excited.

Does anyone have a Close Encounters manual, or the pages on the roto operation? Still can't find one. You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy! What are the errors? Just curious I have a Funhouse that has seen better days. Well, I don't know if it was fixed in later revisions, or if there even were any later manual revisions, but in my Funhouse manual November and my Bride of Pinbot manual March, I found the following errors: Inside front cover Funhouse only -- In the "Connections" column of the Solenoid Table, the connections for solenoids 26, 27 and 28 should read J, J, and J respectively.

These are the solenoids for opening and closing Rudy's eyes, and moving the eyes left. Page Funhouse only -- Same as above, this is a reprint of the Solenoid Table. This unit is the dispenser for the Lock, and basically uses a flipper armature assembly with a disc instead of a flipper. The parts list was copied from the flipper assembly parts list, but the diagram numbers don't match!

Here is the translation table: Item Should be 1 11 2 3 3 8 4 5 5 1 6 2 7 15 8 4 9 6 10 7 11 12 12 14 13 9 14 13 15 10 Page Funhouse only -- They left J5 off of the diagram for the Opto Switch board.

This connector supplies voltage to the infrared LED for Rudy's jaw opto. It should show the pins as 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 from top to bottom, instead of 1 - 3 - 4 - 5. If test point A reads high, the LS is good. If it reads low the IC is bad. While there are ways to test the transistors under power even if the LS is bad, it is more complicated than most hobbyists would want to mess with.

Note: Any time the IC controlling a solenoid is bad you want to also check the diode on the solenoid see testing info here. If the LS tests good, go on to test point B.

If test point B is high then the 2N is bad. If it reads good then the problem is the TIP At this point you should know what components need replacement and can pull the board. Also, always check the solenoid and solenoid diode if you have blown transistors.

The solenoid should read greater than 3 Ohms. Some manuals will not have a generic schematic for the solenoid circuits, so just use the circuit board schematic as described above. You will note the high power circuitry is very similar with the addition of a TIP36C. If it reads good then check test point C and if it is low then the TIP is bad..

Note: You can do this test with the circuit board installed in the game, but the power must be off. Surrounding circuitry can sometimes cause misleading readings. If in doubt, remove the transistor from the board and test it. For a standard PNP put the negative, or black lead, on the middle leg the base.

Note: The TIP36C and TIP transistors have a different form factor, the base is on the left pin instead of the middle hold the transistor with the metal side away from you and the legs pointing down. Following are the test procedures for each type of transistor readings are out of circuit.

It is common to change the voltage setting to volt conversion if a game is re-imported back into the US. Although probably more common at the moment is to convert a domestic game to volts more games are currently being exported from the US than imported.

All voltage selection pins are. Removal of the pins requires a special molex tool. See "Headers, Housing, and Crimping.

This is done with jumper W3 and resistor R93 as shown below. Both RAM sizes work fine in all games. Williams probably provided this flexibility to allow use of whichever RAM was cheaper or more available.

This is done with jumper W3 only as shown below. R93 is always installed. Test ROMs are available from Planetary Pinball , but they should only be used in conjunction with a test fixture and not installed in an actual game, as per the official recommendation. The message shown at left occurs sometimes when the game software seems to want the "country code" jumpers to be configured in a certain way.

The simple solution for English speaking users is to remove the jumpers noted in the message by cutting them off. Twilight Zone, and perhaps game ROM version 9. Other country code jumper configurations are shown below. Early versions of the MPU used "zero ohm resistors" or jumpers to figure the country code. When the game is booted, several LEDs in the backbox will light, and the game may provide sound "bongs" to indicate diagnostic status.

A properly booting WPC game will show a "progress bar" on the DMD along with a "ticking" sound which results from a series of reset signals being sent to the sound board. After a successful boot, the sound board will create a single "bong" tone. After a successful boot, the game should make a single "bong" sound. The game provides a sound board problem indication with the following number of bongs.

This is apparently game software dependent. Fuses are used to protect the various game circuits when a problem arises and the circuit begins to draw more current than originally designed to draw. The best way to test a fuse is to remove it from it's fuse holder and "buzz" it with a DMM set to continuity. This method will prevent false positives via "sneak circuits".

Fuse F sits between the transformer secondary and BR4. BR4 recitifies AC power for the flash lamps. If BR4 failes shorted, F will blow, protecting the transformer secondary winding. BR4 can be tested "in situ" using the method shown in the animated gif at left. Note: This test requires a good fuse to be in place at F for the test to work properly. The tool is called a PLCC puller. Using a jewelers screwdriver or other such tool can fracture the ASIC chip carrier socket as shown at right.

Since these are 84 pins sockets, replacement is non-trivial. Using the incorrect tool may also irreparably damage the ASIC itself by permanently fracturing leg joints, as shown at left. The ASIC must be oriented correctly when installed. Pin 1 of the ASIC is marked with a dot impression on the top of the chip. Pin 1 of the PLCC socket is marked with an arrow pointing to pin one. Orient the ASIC as shown in the picture at left relative to the arrow in the socket, center the chip over the socket, and press firmly on the chip center.

Clicking on the thumbnail at left will open a. Had a thunderstorm roll through or a power surge from the electric company recently? The varistor in the power box may have done it's job protecting the rest of the game's circuitry from the possibly tremendous power surge. Signs of a failed varistor are typically black, charred discoloration throughout the "button" portion green in the case of the adjacent picture of the varistor. Likewise, varistors can blow rather violently, and there may be charred or burnt remains in the area surrounding the varistor.

Over time, the rating of a varistor will lower, causing "occasional" blowing of the mains fuse. The varistor will visually appear to be OK. A good hint is how violently the fuse blows. Likely varistor problems will cause the fuse to totally obliterate. Varistors can be purchased from Great Plains Electronics.

The credit dot is a decimal point a single, lit pixel on the display , that appears after the number of credits or after the words free play on the DMD display on WPC games. It is a quick indicator used to tell the operator or owner that there may be an issue with the game. Most commonly, there is a switch or multiple switch problems with the game. However, a credit dot will appear for other reasons, such as when the date and time are not set. If, after 30 balls or 10 games, a particular switch hasn't registered, the credit dot is posted to alert the user to check the diagnostics.

Some high usage switches will trigger the alert earlier. The credit dot may or may not indicate a real problem. For the example shown in the pic, it's simply reporting a switch that is hard to hit in the game. So, the credit dot is actually saying "Play Better". Leaky alkaline batteries are the 1 killer of MPU boards. Simply removing the batteries is not an option with WPC games as a message stating "Factory Settings Restored" will be received when the game boots.

There are several options other than allowing the battery pack to remain on the MPU board. Below are the two most common methods. The first, most common, and most economical option is to remotely locate the battery holder off the MPU board and somewhere below all other boards.

This ensures that even if the remotely located batteries leak, they won't leak onto or even drip onto any circuit board. Replace the batteries annually, dating them with a Sharpie. Connections are as follows. With the CPU oriented as it would be in the game, solder the red positive wire to the upper right battery pack position. Solder the black negative wire to the lower left battery pack position. Note: most battery packs do not come with wire leads long enough to allow the battery pack to rest in the backbox bottom.

Lengthen the wires as necessary. The 4 pads can be seen in the above picture of the CPU with the old holder removed. Installing this 4-pin connector is a good and clean way to get the batteries off the board and prevent alkaline damage.

Warning: Do not use both the internal and external connector at the same time. Doing so will likely damage the batteries. During the process of installing a remote battery holder, it is a good practice to check the diodes utilized in conjunction with the battery power.

Diode D2, a 1N, is used to keep the MPU board's logic power from charging the batteries in the battery pack. Diode D1, a 1N, is used to keep the battery pack from powering the entire MPU board when the games's power is turned off. Measuring in this way should yield over 3. If measuring shows 0 VDC, either the batteries are dead, or D2 has failed see above.

Ideally, this measurement should yield 1. This calculation represents the nominal voltage delivered by a single AA battery, times 3 batteries , less a typical. Remember that nominal voltage drop across a typical diode is. This is meaningless in some games. But some games use the Real Time Clock, like Twilight Zone which moves the playfield clock to the current time of day during attract mode, and Who?

Dunnit which has a "Midnight Madness" feature. And, the "banks" of resistors and ceramic capacitors below the ULN and LMs provide numerous hiding places for alkaline damage. The small traces under these components implement the switch matrix on the game.

If alkaline abatement is attempted, and if the ULN or LMs are damaged, using any technique other than cutting them off the board, heating the alkaline damaged pads, and pulling the leftover legs out, WILL damage the board further.

The alkaline adheres to the component legs and through-holes very strongly, making it near impossible to remove the component using typical desoldering tools, no matter how skilled the individual is. Re-tin the exposed traces. Corrosion moved all the way up the remote battery holder wires and onto the MPU.

Abating alkaline corrosion on RottenDog MPUs is particularly difficult as the traces and vias are very, very small. With the batteries located above the ASIC socket, there is a substantial probability that severe damage could occur from leaky batteries. The usual alkaline abatement process should be followed. WPC games incorporate a slam tilt switch on the back side of the coin door.

When closed, the game immediately stops, and the display fills with diagonal lines, as pictured at left. Note that this is not a power problem like a "game reset", below. If there is a bad flipper opto board, this may also cause the language to get stuck possibly in Spanish and prevent the language from being changed in the menu settings or by using the MPU's DIP switches.

Once the fuse clip has been bent too much, it will not snap back into position to create a solid mechanical connection to the fuse. This can cause one of the various power voltages to be missing or intermittent. One of the more annoying faults exhibited by WPC machines is the chronic reset problem.

The game will restart, often when both flippers are used at the same time. Note that game resets are a power issue. There are several possible reasons for game resets. Before doing any work on the circuit boards, it is recommended that a number of much easier to fix, and just as probable root causes, be examined.

Possible causes are listed below, in the recommended order of examination. This order is a derived from a combination of "ease of examination" crossed with "probability of root cause". What is being missed is that along with replacing those components, at the very least, the connectors on the board are being reseated, the solder on the cap and bridge is being reflowed, and the board ground to the backplane is perhaps better due to torquing the screws better.

A long time ago…in a pinball galaxy far, far away…a kindly fellow was playing a nice game of pinball, hitting all the shots, and earning multiball after multiball. A visitor from the neighboring planetary system noted that, "I once fixed that by replacing BR2 and C5". And lo, the mantra was born. Most pinball owners do not possess the skill, experience, and tools that would allow them to work on circuit boards without damaging an expensive, and sometimes irreplaceable board. Clearly, this is an invalid assumption.

The fallacy lies in coming to a conclusion based solely on the order of events, rather than taking into account other factors that might rule out the connection. In reality of course, when components are removed and replaced on a circuit board, the attendant "changes" to the state of the game system include….

So please, hold off on heating up the soldering iron until methodically working through the disciplined process in the following section. The LM is "programmed" to 5. It is possible, although not advised, to adjust the output of the LM regulator to something other than the nominal 5.

If the game is resetting only within the first minute or two, and plays fine after that, skip to Step 8, Failed Thermistor. If the thermistor turns out to not be the cause, return to step 1. This might help in two ways. This might be enough to return your game to service quickly. But this is not a long term repair. The proper repair is to repin both the male and female sides of the connectors.

That is, the pins develop micro-divots or irregularities that detract from a perfect connection. Reseating the connection may smooth out the defects that have formed and also might move the physical point of contact to a different part of the pins. Again, reseating these connectors is a temporary fix that might work for a day, a week, or a month. If the machine is resetting, open the coin door and measure the AC voltage at the auxiliary socket with the machine turned off, and then with the machine turned on.

If the voltage at the auxiliary socket is over VAC, the problem is most likely inside the game. If the voltage is below VAC, there is a line voltage problem and the local electricity company's help will be needed to correct the problem. Similar to step 2 above, cracked header pins where the power enters the board or at the ground connections on the board can cause game resets.

In the picture at left, cracked header pins at J ground in a Twilight Zone caused game resets. Either reflow the solder, or better yet, replace the headers with new pins. This area is subjected to very high temperatures that sometimes causes the solder to crystallize. If the solder joint is in any way suspect, remove the old solder and reflow new solder on the joint. Ensure that a nice solder "meniscus" is created a volcano shaped solder joint versus a "doughnut" around the wire lead.

Fractured solder joints here may cause the DMM to read near 5V, yet the joint doesn't allow enough current to pass. This can cause game resets and even cause the game to not boot. Reflowing the solder at these joints is prudent. WPC flippers are, in general, the only coils in the game that should have diodes across the coil lugs.

While diodes seldom fail, sometimes the pounding environment that flipper diodes must live within causes solder joints to fail. Ensure that each flipper coil has the required two diodes, that the diodes are good, and that they are soldered to the coil lugs with a quality solder joint.

Try re-seating each connector. If the reset frequency is reduced or disappears, then the root cause has probably discovered. These connectors should be repinned at a minimum with at least new pins the connector housings may be salvageable for a long term solution. Note: the molex pin extractor for these "round" pins is relatively expensive but there is no other good way to remove the pins.

This connector often becomes tarnished, increasing resistance and reducing the effectiveness of the circuit. Reseating the connector may temporarily reduce reset frequency. This is an indication that this connector should be repinned. As always, it's best to repin both the male and female connectors. Compare the two readings. A difference of. Reseating the wire harness that connects the power-driver board to the CPU board may identify the root cause but reseating is not a long term solution.

There is a inline splice connector commonly called a Z-connector between the driver board and the CPU board. The Z-connector can be replaced with a new one, or more robustly, eliminated by splicing the wires together, soldering, and heat-shrinking.

This entirely removes the Z-connector as a contributing factor to game resets. At least on Twilight Zone, the wire harness that contains the "Z" connector can be removed from the game entirely, as shown at right. This harness has been repinned and the "Z" connector eliminated. Some field techs will "repunch" IDC connectors in an attempt to make a better connection. Without the correct punch tool, sometimes an even worse connection is created, as pictured at left.

If the decision is to use IDC connectors, at least use the correct tool to punch the wires. Tarnished, heat damaged, or damage to header pin plating creates resistance and can sometimes be a contributor to game resets. If the male header pins are tarnished, their female mates are probably tarnished also. If tarnished pins are found, now might be a good time to remove that aspect as a contributor to game resets.

Replace the male header pins, remembering to clip the correct "key" pin before reinstalling the board into the game. Replace the female connector and pins with good quality Trifurcon crimp-on pins. IDC Insulation Displacement Connectors connectors as found originally on the game were used by the OEM to speed the manufacturing process and do not provide the level of robustness that can be achieved using Trifurcon crimp-on pins and good technique. Another possible contributor to poor power connections is cracked header pin solder joints.

Should you identify cracked header pin solder joints, it's best to remove as much of the old solder as possible before reflowing new solder at the joint. Be sure to check the power connections on the display as well. One documented repair involved a Funhouse with a reset issue. It would play perfectly until someone nudged the machine causing it to reset. During troubleshooting, it was noted that the game would reset even in attract mode when the display was lifted out of the backbox or placed back in it.

The ground short through vibration was resetting the CPU! Repinning both the male and female ends of this connector with a proper molex housing resolved the issue. There's one last test we can do before disassembling parts of the machine. This test can clearly identify a bad bridge rectifier or capacitor. You will need a clip lead. The meter should read about 9V. If the bridge rectifier is bad, it will read about 7V. For the capacitor, turn your meter to AC volts. Note that inexpensive meters may give false readings here.

Ideally, your meter should be a true RMS meter. Good capacitors will read about mV AC. Bad capacitors will read up to 2VAC. The thermistor is generally a black or grey disk, about the size of a dime. It is located inside the power box which is found just inside the coin door and to the right. If your game has one and not all WPC games do , it will be connected in series between the power box fuse and the black side of AC power.

Note that the power box may also contain a "varistor", or MOV, which is essentially a surge protector. The varistor will be wired in parallel with across the AC power. The varistor is not a factor in game resets.

The thermistor's job is to limit current inrush into the capacitors when the game is first powered on. This reduces stress on the bridge rectifiers or diodes in the game's power circuits which is the primary cause of bridge rectifier failures.

After a few seconds, the thermistor heats up and drops to a very low resistance. Failing thermistors pass less current and have to get hotter to work. This heating takes time, so the game will often reset in the first 30 minutes of operation, and then be fine afterwards.

Obviously, a cold environment will make the symptoms worse, and a warm room may appear to cure the problem. Resetting while the game warms up is therefore a key indicator of a failing thermistor. If this is the case, you'll hear the characteristic same "bong" as when the game boots.

Sometimes, the thermistor may be visibly damaged. However, it may look good and still be bad. An easy test of the thermistor is to jumper across the legs of the thermistor with a heavy gauge wire. If the game resets no longer occur, replace the thermistor with the correctly rated part.

The original Williams part number is A replacement is available from Great Plains Electronics. While you have the box open try wiggling the connectors the game IS unplugged! The fix is to solder all the crimp quick connect examples on coil wires to the pins they were connected to in the box: cut the quick connects off, one at a time, and then solder the wires directly. Insulate the connections with Heat-Shrink or a good grade of electrical tape.

The printed circuit boards used in pinball machines sometimes have traces on both sides of the board. Most WPC boards are manufactured in this way. The traces are joined through the board by a thin layer of copper, plated to the inside of the hole. This plating is delicate. Extreme care as well as good technique must be exercised when removing these components as it is very easy to lift traces or damage through-holes on the board.

If the component is known to be bad, it is sometimes easier to snip the component from the board with a flush cutter and remove each leg of the component individually.

An excellent way to repair a lifted trace or cracked through-hole is to create a solder stitch between the traces on each side of a two sided board. Some PCB repairmen will install jumpers as a "repair" for cracked through-holes or to "guarantee" connectivity between components.

Some PCB repairmen will avoid the use of jumpers in favor of better looking rework. Electrolytic capacitors do not last forever. They are designed to operate for about 1, hours at their full rating.

Capacitor life is a function of temperature: the cooler the capacitor operates, the longer the life. The system designer must select higher voltage and capacitance ratings to achieve the design life, which can be as short as 5 years in a pinball machine operated continuously in a warm environment. When this happens, resets sometimes result. Note that commonly available replacement capacitors are rated to 35V, and will work fine for this application.

If you've gotten this far and are replacing C5, you might as well replace C4 too. More often than not, an amateur will damage the through hole that connects one side of the board to the other, either severing the connection completely, or badly enough to cause intermittent reset issues.

Should the through hole be pulled, a solder stitch needs to be installed, or "jumpers" need to be installed connecting the associated bridge rectifier to the capacitor. Advice: Without the experience, tools, and technique to accomplish this task, most hobbyists would be well advised to send the board to a pro for rehab.

The thermistor protects the bridge rectifiers from inrush current. Still, bridge rectifiers will occasionally fail. Readings outside of these ranges indicate a failed or failing bridge.

Note that these readings are not "hard and fast". For instance, a reading of. We are looking for an "open" or a "short". Note also that this test is not conducted "under load" and it is possible for the bridge to test "good" when it will in fact fail under load this is also true when testing diodes, transistors, etc.

Should you decide to replace the bridge, it is best to screw the heat sink to the bridge before soldering it in place as the heat sink is shared between BR1 and BR2. A small amount of heat sink compound between the bridge and the heat sink is necessary.

This compound improves conduction of the heat away from the bridge and into the sink. Some repair tips suggested cutting the heat sink in half, separating it into two parts, one part for each bridge. This technique is no longer considered to be a best practice. Solder both the top and bottom solder pads of the bridge. Should the through-hole of the bridge leads be cracked or otherwise damaged, use the " solder stitch " technique noted above or install jumper wires between the DC outputs of the bridge and the terminals of C5.

When clipping the leads of the wire bridge, do not cut into the solder "meniscus" the "volcano" of solder around the wire lead. Cutting into the solder meniscus can cause cracked solder joints later. With proper desoldering tools, like the Hakko or Hakko D, removal of bridge rectifiers and other components is greatly simplified. After replacement of bridge rectifiers is made, it's not a bad idea to mark the replacement date.

In doing this, you or anyone else will know when these were replaced, and more importantly that they were replaced. The LMK 5V regulator is a robust device, but it can drift over time to below the design requirement of 4. If your 5VDC reads less than 4. Note that these voltages are compliant to the LMK's spec. However, at the lower end of this spec, this lower voltage may be the cause of resets.

The PSU5 is a 5V 3A high-efficiency switch-mode regulator that is a direct replacement for the LMK in terms of form factor and current capacity; it is superior to the LMK due to its reduced power dissipation.